Friday, 6 October 2017

The Effect of the Industrial Revolution on the Production of Embroidery in Palestine

Introduction
Almost every culture on the planet practices the art of embroidery. The art of embroidery involves customization of clothes to make a print with yarns and threads colored with many different colors or even made of metals, such as gold. The art of embroidery was a very popular activity in Palestine before their political misfortunes in 1948 and later
in 1967. The exact beginning of time art in the Palestine society is unknown; however, there are examples of embroidery art that survive from different cultures across the globe, including Egypt, ancient China, and northern Europe. Before the invention of machines, the art of embroidery was a tedious, time-consuming activity done by hand. It was a symbol of wealth because only the rich could afford it. The invention of machine reduced the time and effort invested in production resulting in lower prices. Despite the many challenges facing the Palestine society, different Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) are working to ensure the continuity of the art by teaching young Palestinians in schools. Despite the efforts by NGOs, most of the embroidery techniques in Palestine are traditional.
An Overview of Embroidery in Palestine
There are many different color and patterns used in Palestinian embroidery; however, there is only one type of stitch. Different regions of Palestine use different colors and patterns. The colors and patterns do not only connote the region where a person is from, but also the status of the person in the society. For example, there are different colors and patterns for pregnant women, new brides, and older women. In addition, every town in Palestine has a different pattern and color that is distinct to people from that town. The art of embroidery in Palestine is not only an art, but also an integral part of the society because it not only communicates a person’s geographical region, but also his or her status in the society.
Palestinian embroidery predominately employs designs of geometric shapes. However, there are other shapes, such as representations of trees, flowers, birds, pots, rainbow, depending on the geographical region. The geometric shapes used in the designs have humorous names, such as ‘old man’s teeth,’ ‘old man upside down,’ ‘foreign moon,’ and other such creative names. Palestine is a diverse society that has included people from different religions including, Christianity, Islam, and Judaism for hundreds of years. For most of history, the diverse groups of people have lived in harmony because the people believe religion is a private matter between man and God. The different religions did not affect social relations, and did not show up in Palestinian embroidery.
The different religious groups in the Palestine society have no obvious religious representations in their embroidery that can serve as distinct markers of members of a certain religion. However, the Christians in the society have embroidery with Christian representations they use exclusively in their homes and churches. Despite the invention and advancement of sewing and embroiling machines, Palestinians continue to prefer hand stitching for their ceremonial garments. The only technique used by the Palestinians for embroidery is the cross-stitch technique. There are three variation of the technique depending on the amount of thread available and the desired pattern. The three variations are horizontal, vertical, and diagonal embroidery.
The Sewing Revolution
Elias Howe ignited a social, technological, and industrial revolution with the invention of the sewing machine in 1846. The Connecticut born inventor made it possible to produce cheap clothing in large quantities. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, women had to sew clothes for their family and themselves by hand. Women spent most of their time at home doing household chorus or sewing garments in groups. The invention of the sewing machine spelt the end of the cottage industrial and the raise of sweatshops. The machine provided women with the opportunity to work and earn in the industry. The sewing machine became a symbol of women’s work in the contemporary era.
Despite the revolution of the textile industry by the sewing machine, the Palestine society remained isolated from this development because of the nature of the terrain the Palestinians live. Before the declaration of the state of Israel in 1948, Palestine was a country comprising of hundreds of villages spread from the coast to the bank of river Jordan. The region is mountainous and the convenient form of transport is by donkey. Therefore, Palestinian villages and people are not only isolated from the world, but also from each other. This limited the spread of the sewing machine into the sparse villages in the mountainous area. Save for Zionism movement that threatened the way of life of the Palestinian people, the traditional forms of Palestinian embroidery have been preserved through the passing down of embroidery knowledge from mother to daughter.
State of Cross-Stitch Embroidery in Palestine
Palestinian embroidery was ones a reserve of old women and their daughters in villages across the country. However, since the political upheavals that rocked the country from 1948, embroidery is a paramount symbol of a threatened Palestinian culture. Hand embroidered pieces can be found in the homes of Palestinians in Gaza Strip, West Bank, and Diaspora. Contemporary Palestinians do not only hang embroidery in their homes, but also wear it on traditional occasions and exchange embroidery as gifts during the occasions. The popularity of embroidery among the Palestinian people stems from the beauty and significance of the embroidery to the Palestine, especially now their heritage is under threat.
The patterns in the embroidery represent Palestinian history dating back as far back as three thousand years ago. The designs are derived from different eras, mythologies, and foreign occupations. Palestinians endeavor to preserve embroidery as much as possible because it serves as a connection they have to their past. Embroidery represented the rural lifestyle of the Palestinian woman. The decorations on the garments the women wore were a testament of her status in the society and personal skills. Much of this tradition was lost when the state of Israel was created in the region where the Palestine villages were. Those who survived the invasion carried the tradition with them to refugee camps in neighboring countries, such as Lebanon. Although most of the embroiled garments were lost and other sold as the Palestinians fled, the tradition remains and serves as a reminder of past life in the villages.
Hand cross-stitch embroidery still survives and is taught to young Palestinians in schools and refugee camps. The older generations prefer to wear Palestinian traditional garments for traditional occasions, such as wedding; however, the younger generation is abandoning the tradition altogether. Many of the Palestinians are impoverished and living in camps. Many of those who prefer to wear traditional clothes for special occasions cannot afford handmade embroidery; therefore, they have to settle for cheap industrial produced embroidery. In the industries, embroidery is produced using thread dyed using synthetic ink and is mostly made of polyester. Industrial embroidery is of lower quality than handmade embroidery. The industrial revolution has enabled the Palestinian people to preserve their embroidery culture by availing affordable embroiled garments for them to wear during special occasions and to hand in their homes.

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